Ok, so this is really my first attempt at “designing” anything myself- and I can’t really say that this is particularly innovative or original. However, I am quite pleased with the result, so I thought I’d explain what I did and how I did it. As such, this isn’t so much a “pattern” as it is a “recipe” and I am quite certain that anyone with experience making sweaters, especially raglan sweaters can accomplish it quite easily- and anyone who can do yo’s and k2tog’s can do the lace pattern.
- YARN: I used 10 skiens of Knit Picks Swish Worsted- 100% superwash merino, 110yds/50gram skein in Marine Heather. (The amount of yarn you use will depend on size, length etc. I’m a size 20, so I’m going to use a bit more yarn than a size 2. Also, I wanted mine to be tunic length- should you make it shorter, you would need less yarn.)
- NEEDLES: US size 9 long circular needle, US size 9 dps, US size 7 dpns
- GAUGE: about 4 stitches per inch in stockinette stitch. (Because this is a raglan sweater, you can easily adapt the pattern to your gauge)
I wanted a nice scoopy boatneckish sweater, so, using the circular needles, I cast on 108 stitches. Joining to knit in the round (and taking care not to twist) I knit in k2 p2 ribbing for about 1 inch.
To increase for the raglan sleeves:
Round 1: knit 36 , PM, knit 18 , PM, knit 36, PM, knit 18, PM. (I like to make my last marker a different color so I know when its the end of a round)
Round 2: Knit to 2 stitches before marker, KFB, knit, SM, knit, KFB- repeat this at every marker.
Round 3: knit
Round 4: Repeat row 2
Continue increasing on even rounds and knitting on odd rounds. I usually take my bust measurement, and increase within about 3 inches of my bust measurement. Then, I like to transfer my knitting to scrap yarn and try my sweater on to see how its fitting. I know it seems like a lot of work to have to transfer and then re-pick up stitches- but really, its worth it to get a sweater that fits properly.
When you’ve gotten the sleeves close to fitting,count the number of stitches you have on your needles. Continue increasing until your markers meet easily under your arms, but aim for a number divisible by 10 for the lace pattern- when the markers meet (no pulling or stretching!) cast off for the arms. If you’re like me and have a slightly wider hip to bust ratio, you can discreetly add a few increases as you knit toward the tunic to accomidate. Just keep in mind you need a number divisible by 10 when you start the lace pattern of the tunic.
Dividing for the Sleeves:
Knit to the first marker, place stitches on scrap yarn or stitch holders. Slip the second marker, knit to third marker. Slip the last of the stitches to scrap yarn or stitch holders and continue knitting in the round. By now you will have the front and back of the sweater on your needles and the shoulder sections separated onto the scrap yarn or stitch holders. I prefer using scrap yarn as it allowed me to try on the sweater as I go for perfect fit.
Continuing the top:
Just knit in plain stockinette until the top is the appropriate width. I wanted an empire style bust on my sweater, so I stopped knitting in stockinette just below my bust. Remember you should have a number divisible by 10 before beginning the lace. I added a few increases on the sides towards the bottom of the stockinette section before beginning the lace pattern.
When your top is as long as you’d like and you have a number of stitches divisible by 10 on your needles, begin the lace as follows:
Round 1: yo, k2tog, k3, repeat to end of round
Round 2: and all subsequent even rows, knit
Round 3: k1, yo, k2tog, k2, repeat to end of round
Round 5: k2, yo, k2tog, k1, repeat to end of round
Round 7: k3, yo, k2tog repeat to end of round
Round 9: k2, yo, k2tog, k1 repeat to end of round
Round 11: k1, yo, k2tog, k2 repeat to end of round
Round 13: yo, k2tog, k3 repeat to end of round
Repeat rows 2-13 until desired length. Bind off using a relatively elasic BO.
Arms: Pick up stitches for arm with size 9 dpns and knit in the round until desired length. I wanted mine sort of elbow length, so I just used 1 skein per arm. When it was the desired length, I switched to the size 7 dpns and knit in k2 p2 ribbing for about an inch, then cast off.
Sew in ends and lightly block.